coco chanel susan golman rubin review | The Pink and the Black

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Susan Goldman Rubin's *Coco Chanel: Pearls, Perfume, and the Little Black Dress* (released March 13, 2018) offers a compelling and nuanced portrait of one of the 20th century's most iconic figures: Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel. While numerous biographies have explored Chanel's life and career, Rubin's work distinguishes itself through its balanced approach, insightful analysis, and engaging narrative style. This review will delve into the book's strengths and weaknesses, examining its contribution to the existing body of Chanel scholarship and assessing its overall effectiveness in portraying the complexities of this fascinating woman.

The book meticulously traces Chanel's journey from her humble beginnings in an orphanage to her ascension to the pinnacle of the fashion world. Rubin doesn't shy away from the darker aspects of Chanel's life, including her ambiguous relationships with powerful men, her controversial wartime associations, and the often ruthless business tactics that fueled her empire. This unflinching honesty is a significant strength of the biography. Instead of presenting a sanitized, romanticized version of Chanel, Rubin provides a more complete and, arguably, more truthful picture of a woman driven by ambition, creativity, and a deep understanding of the power of image.

One of the book's most significant contributions is its detailed exploration of Chanel's creative process. Rubin expertly weaves together accounts of Chanel's designs, her innovative use of fabrics and silhouettes, and her revolutionary approach to women's fashion. The book meticulously details the evolution of iconic pieces such as the little black dress, the Chanel suit, and the use of pearls and perfume as integral parts of the Chanel brand identity. This focus on the creative aspects of Chanel's work is particularly valuable, providing readers with a deeper appreciation for the ingenuity and foresight that propelled her to success. The book effectively demonstrates how Chanel's designs weren't merely aesthetically pleasing; they were revolutionary, liberating women from restrictive Victorian-era fashions and offering a new, more modern aesthetic that resonated with the changing times. The detailed descriptions of her design process, drawing inspiration from her own life experiences and the prevailing social and cultural climate, offer a fascinating glimpse into the mind of a true visionary.

Furthermore, Rubin effectively contextualizes Chanel's life within the broader historical and social landscape of early 20th-century Europe. The rise of Chanel's brand is interwoven with the significant political and social upheavals of the period, including World War I and World War II. The book acknowledges and addresses the controversial aspects of Chanel's relationship with Nazi officials during the occupation of France, a period that has been the subject of much debate and scrutiny. Rubin's treatment of this sensitive topic is measured and insightful, presenting the evidence without resorting to sensationalism or overly simplistic judgments. This nuanced approach allows the reader to form their own conclusions about Chanel's actions and motivations during this turbulent period. The book doesn't shy away from the complexities of her personality, acknowledging both her undeniable genius and her questionable choices. This balanced perspective is crucial in understanding the full scope of Chanel's legacy.

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